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Henry Leutwyler – Continue Reading BelowTwo royals—Pierpaolo Piccioli, heir to king of couture Valentino Garavani; and model/music scion Selah Marley, granddaughter of Bob and daughter of Lauryn Hill—are holding court in Katz’s Delicatessen. Standing at the Lower East Side establishment’s counter, which runs the length of the chaotic dining area and is punctuated by steaming mounds of brisket and corned beef, the two are discussing their mutual admiration for, of all people, Justin Bieber. When Marley, who’s sporting a patchwork fur coat over a shocking-pink dress and shower slides from Piccioli’s “Pink Is Punk” resort collection (shown in May, here in New York City), climbs on top of the counter, the tour bus–disgorged diners are too fixated on their mile-high pastrami on ryes to care. As for the staff, they’ve been watching patrons gasp and moan here for nearly 30 years, ever since Meg Ryan faked cinema’s most famous orgasm in When Harry Met Sally. They’ve seen stranger tableaux.As one might expect from the Italian fashion house that got its start outfitting Hollywood glamour girls in the La Dolce Vita era, the moment is appropriately, well, cinematic. Piccioli, as it transpires, once dreamed of being a movie director, but ended up studying fashion design at Rome’s Istituto Europeo di Design, where he fell hard for the fashion photography of Deborah Turbeville and Irving Penn. “I saw their images as frames in a narrative and used to imagine the moment before and the moment after,” he says. Now he imagines his mission as similar to an auteur’s: “to tell stories about life through fashion.”In 2008, after spending nine years designing accessories at Valentino alongside his longtime creative partner, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the pair were promoted to co–creative directors. Together, they injected a bit of punkish edge via the best-selling Rockstud accessories line and quietly evolved Valentino’s elaborately embellished evening wear DNA, offering gossamer A-line dresses with long sleeves and high necklines that redefined the brand with a prettiness that was lighter and less forced, if still regal. After Chiuri’s appointment as artistic director of Dior in July 2016, Piccioli, in his first year flying solo, has impressed critics with his new emphasis on daywear, specifically a truly singular breed of haute athleisure. “I can see a woman wearing a tracksuit with fur or jewels,” Piccioli says. “I want her to be able to do her own freestyle.” – Continue Reading BelowToday, as they tuck into pastrami sandwiches, 18-year-old Marley articulates this ethos well, saying that Valentino’s pieces are “so statement- making, but also give room for exploration. My grandma could wear it, or my cousin.” Piccioli is happy to return the compliment: “I like the way the young generation experiments by wearing a full face of makeup or none at all, or wearing heels as casually as flats.” He’s excited for this new guard to engage with the house’s heritage at every touchpoint, such as the Instagram Stories he creates for the @maisonvalentino account (“supershort films,” he jokes, rearranging a plate of dill spears for a better shot).Piccioli’s own black-jeans-and-sneakers uniform reads more everyday guy than patrician gentleman. Which, indeed, he is: The 50-year-old takes the train to the atelier every morning from Nettuno, a beach town an hour south of Rome where he and his wife, Simona, are raising their three children—Benedetta, 20, Pietro, 19, and Stella, 11. The commute gives him time to listen to music (Kendrick Lamar and David Bowie at the moment) and catch up on episodes of Baz Luhrmann’s The Get Down , Netflix’s series on the rise of hip-hop. The show (now sadly canceled) served as inspiration—or as he prefers to call it, “samples”—for Piccioli’s latest collection. You can see its influence in the impressive breadth of sporty daywear, including sheer, A-line midi dresses layered over racing-stripe unitards and tracksuits cut from hammered silk. The Get Down’s original soundtrack, based on pioneering South Bronx ’70s hip-hop, serves as metaphor for the way he approaches design. “Hip-hop samples music; it uses something that is already done and mixes it in a different way. What comes out is one sound, which is made up of different sounds that you already know,” Piccioli says. “But it’s new, and it’s one.”Styled by Samira Nasr. On model Selah Marley: Mink coat, cotton sweatshirt, $2,790, light georgette dress, $4 ,400, jersey Lycra swimsuit, $550, all, Valentino, at Valentino boutiques nationwide. Slides, Valentino Garavani, $725. On Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli: His own clothes. Hair by Chuck Amos at Jump for Pantene; makeup by Sir John for L’Ore?al Paris; manicure by Gina Viviano for Chanel; casting by Paul Brickman at Zan Casting; model: Selah Marley at Next Models; produced by Una Simone Harris; location: Katz’s Delicatessen, New York.This article originally appears in the October 2017 issue of ELLE.Get the Latest Issue of ELLE

Pierpaolo Piccioli Is Taking Valentino In a Timely Direction

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Provisions Canada Goose Outlet for soured loans are homesite canada goose outlet expected to peak across Ireland buy canada goose jacket cheap bruised financial sector canada goose uk shop this year after the central bank said it wanted all lenders to take a tougher line on bad debt charges in uk canada goose outlet time for 2011 results.

But analysts said the speed at which Irish people were falling into mortgage difficulties was worrying cheap canada goose uk and an accelerated pace could mean provisions keep rising into 2012.

Unemployment, the main factor behind arrears, remains stubbornly high with data canada goose uk black friday on Wednesday showing the number of people claiming unemployment benefit returned to its 2011 peak in November.

the pace of arrears continues to accelerate over the next quarter or two I think you have to start getting a buy canada goose jacket little bit more nervous, said canada goose black friday sale Eamonn Hughes, an analyst at Goodbody Stockbrokers.

AIB, Ireland second largest bank, said on Wednesday impaired loans Canada Goose online continued to increase for both business and personal clients and over 12,000 customers were having difficulties meeting mortgage repayments.

The central bank said this month that over 99,000 mortgages were either in arrears or had been restructured at the end of September, representing some canada goose 13 percent of the total residential mortgage market.

AIB has 800 staff, up from 600 last canada goose uk outlet year, dealing with struggling small Canada Goose Parka business customers. Over a third of the bank loans were classified as either impaired, vulnerable or exhibiting weakness at the end of June.

Under an EU IMF bailout, Irish banks have recapitalised to the tune of 70 billion euros to bulletproof their balance sheets from rising loan losses following a disastrous and ongoing property crash.

DELEVERAGING Under the terms of the bailout, Ireland banks have to radically shrink in size and AIB, which was nationalised a year Canada Goose Online ago, said it was already more than halfway to meeting a 19 billion euros deleveraging target by the end of 2013.

A former stock market darling with international ambitions, AIB said it had shrunk its assets by some 10.7 billion euros through disposals, repayments and redemptions and said it was aiming to sell assets worth over 1 billion euros by the end of the year.

So far, AIB deleveraging has focused canada goose factory sale on loans located in the United States and Europe. Disposing of assets in Ireland, still locked in a property downturn, will be more difficult and may require them to swallow larger cheap Canada Goose losses.

There will also be more sellers next year as European lenders are expected to ditch up to 3 trillion euros of loans to meet new capital rules and ease funding strains.

AIB said its net interest margin, the profitability of its lending, had stabilised in the third quarter but it warned that income pressures may intensify as the Canada Goose Jackets ECB starts to cut interest rates echoing a similar warning from larger rival Canada Goose sale Bank of Ireland.

AIB was forced to pass on the most recent ECB rate cut to customers following pressure from the government, the bank ultimate owner. Bank of Ireland, which has avoided majority state control, ignored the state request.

AIB said deposits had stabilised and canada goose coats on sale there were some early signs of inflows.

Earlier on Wednesday, central bank data showed that banks based in Ireland had suffered a near 3 billion canada goose clearance sale euros outflow in deposits in October as the euro zone debt crisis intensifies.

Data for just the Irish owned lenders Bank of Ireland, AIB and permanent tsb showed that deposits had risen by 1 billion euros canada goose clearance to 266 billion euros in October.

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